• In anticipation of Tomato Season…

    by  • February 19, 2015 • 0 Comments

    Here it is, the middle of February and thanks to the unseasonably warm weather we are ALL itching to plant the summer garden! Well, do your best to hold your horses. as we are still 4-6 weeks away from the last day of frost!! This means that if warm season veggies are planted now and we get a very cold night, the plants will be damaged if not killed. Also, early season tomatoes are at higher risk of insect and disease damage long before they set their first fruit. Now, if we have an oddly warm and dry spring then your gamble may pay off.

    As for me, I am dying to get things planted as well but I am not. I NEVER plant my tomatoes in the ground before the beginning of March is this is only done with protection like a Wall of Water or in a greenhouse. Yet I still plant the majority of my tomatoes in early to mid April. I currently have tomato starts in my greenhouse with more seeds going in now, but that is it.

    If you want to research and plan your summer garden, particularly tomato varieties, check out this list I put together. These are all the varieties of tomato that you could special order or watch for them to arrive in the nursery! Want to learn more about growing Tomatoes? We will have Tomato Expert, Steve Goto at The Greenery for TWO SEMINARS on April 4th! More info here: www.greenerynsy.com/events.

    I’d love to hear from you what will you do? Gamble on early season or will you plant? Leave your feedback in the comments!


    Microgreens vs Sprouts – what’s the diff?

    by  • February 17, 2015 • 0 Comments

    Microgreens and sprouts are trending everywhere from cooking shows and magazines to fancy restaurants and food trucks. But here’s a secret – you can grow microgreens and sprouts right in your kitchen for pennies!

    Microgreens are young, leafy vegetables or herbs that are harvested just above the soil line when the plant is 1-2 inches tall. Microgreens include the first pair of leaves, called cotyledons, and one set of just developed “true” leaves. They are grown in flat trays using soil or soil-less media and are ready to harvest in about 7 to 14 days. Recent research has shown that the nutritional value of microgreens can be higher than mature plants, adding to their popularity with chefs and home gardeners. Spicy Mix, Red Winter Kale, and Peas for Shoots are delicious and just a few of the varieties are carry.


    Don’t miss our Tomato event!

    by  • February 16, 2015 • 0 Comments

    We are pleased to announce that on April 4th we will have Steve Goto at The Greenery to teach us more about Tomatoes! Steve is an expert nurseryman and lecturer based in southern California. He uses organic gardening practices to grow over a 900 varieties of heirloom tomatoes and other vegetables. Learn from Steve all the tips and tricks to successful tomato harvest.


    Everything you want to know about growing Organic Tomatoes Seminar

    Cost: $3 per person at the door

    Saturday, April 4th 10am & 1:30pm (more…)

    Greenery’s Short Guide to Citrus Varieties

    by  • February 16, 2015 • 0 Comments

    As our yards get smaller, or we already have planted our entire yard, it may seem we don’t have the room for new plants. With thoughtful (and fun) planning, it has never been easier to grow citrus trees in small spaces. Citrus trees have great form and evergreen foliage that is attractive all year long. They enjoy the hottest part in your yard with a minimum of 6-8 hours of full sun. So find a sunny spot and decide which height is best for your needs. Dwarf varieties are generally 6-8’ tall. Dwarf trees are great for easy picking (no ladder!) and a saver of precious garden space. If you’d like more shade without having a full size tree, semi-dwarfs reach to about 12’. If you have the space, standards can reach up to 25’ with age.

    The “best” varieties are all personal preference! But here’s some info about the varieties we carry: (more…)

    Now is the time…

    by  • February 1, 2015 • 0 Comments

    Trees are blooming, bulbs are emerging or blooming, insects are working and now is the time prevent a few things…

    Fireblight – a disease that causes black leaves and flower tips on Pears, Apples, Crabapples, Hawthorn, Pyracantha and more. The bacteria that makes this happen enters the plants through the flowers and new leaf shoots in the spring but symptoms (dark brown to black dieback) do not show up for a few months. Prevent this now by spraying select fungicides only a couple times during bloom and thereafter. Drop by the nursery to find out what to spray and when.
    Unwanted fruit – Flowering Plums, Flowering Pears, Olives and many more trees produce fruit that is a nuisance. You can spray Florel during bloom to prevent almost all of this fruit from developing this year.

    Worms on Winter Veggies – monitor and prevent the green caterpillars that eat your cabbage, kale, brussel sprouts and more. Pick up our Cabbage Looper trap, put up near the plants and monitor for adult butterflies. Once they are present, spray with your desired insecticide (organic solutions available!) and save your crops!!

    Peach Twig Borer – overwinters in crotches of limbs then emerges in spring to bore into tips of branches. Adults moths fly in summer and fall laying eggs. If you have a severe infestation it will be beneficial to spray Spinosad and dormant oil before buds open or just spinosad during bloom and a week after to kill any overwintering worms. In early summer put up our Peach Twig Borer trap to monitor and trap adult moths through the summer and fall.

    Growing & Preserving Cilantro – You Can Grow That!

    by  • January 25, 2015 • 0 Comments

    For those who have tried growing Cilantro and failed, like I have many times, I wanted to share with you my success. I have grown large crops of Cilantro every year…successfully!! This is what I do and how I preserve it.

    First, Cilantro is a short lived annual. It bolts quickly as the days get warmer and longer no matter how much you try to pinch off the flower buds. So PLANT IT NOW! I plant my Cilantro each February, even in frosty weather, and harvested it all by mid-April. That was all. My crops that I had planted after February bolted so quickly that there were no leaves to harvest. However, if your plants bolt too quickly, let the seeds develop and harvest them. Use them for coriander in cooking or use them to plant next year!